There are plenty of bird choices during the fall months in Switzerland. Look for fresh turkeys, Bresse chickens, pheasants, quail, wild duck, geese and much more!

I don’t eat much meat. But, I will make an exception when it comes to fall in Switzerland and gobble down quite a lot of birds.

There are considerable opportunities to find very fresh turkeys, chickens, pheasants, quail, wild duck, and much more. There are also some important practical issues to consider before purchasing a bird, as many newcomers to Switzerland quickly discover.

Selecting a special bird to prepare during the holiday season is not necessarily a choice made based on price or flavor, but rather one of size. Most Swiss ovens are far too small to cook a large bird – especially for the giant turkeys meant to feed copious amounts of friends and relatives during the holidays. Fortunately, there are some available options awaiting those who can think in smaller terms.

One such example is the humble chicken, which is often overshadowed by the more prominent holiday turkey. But a really good chicken can be a revelation.

Situated about 90 minutes southeast of Geneva is the famed French region of Bresse – an area especially blessed with a rich culinary tradition. It is also the home of two very important contributions to gastronomy. Brillat-Savarin, the brilliant gourmand and philosopher, was born and raised in the Bresse region. Most of his inspiration in writing the famed Physiologie du goût resulted from his experiences while living in the area.

But it was the infamous poularde de Bresse which may have ultimately eclipsed Savarin’s fame and became the region’s most celebrated product. Savarin himself may have even been somewhat responsible in deifying this regal-looking white-feathered chicken by writing an unforgettable passage of a young couple’s mid-night encounter with the poularde de Bresse.

The famous Bresse chicken has been well-known throughout southern Burgundy since the late 1500s. Strict AOC regulations dictate the bird’s diet, the regional soil and vegetation, and event the methods used in rearing the bird in a free-range environment. Patience and careful adherence to all of the rules result in a rich-tasting bird which is honored with the French name poularde (the name poularde refers to a fat chicken suitable for roasting, and not a simple domesticated bird used simply for food). One feature of the Bresse chicken is the fat hidden inside the bird, which produces its unforgettable flavor. When slowly roasted and occasionally basted with sweet butter, the fat gently melts into the meat providing both flavor and moisture.

Although an excellent choice, the Bresse chicken is not the only bird fit for Swiss ovens.

There are also plenty of game birds from the eastern regions of France which are readily available throughout Switzerland. Pheasants, wild turkey, quail, geese and wild duck are often sold locally or in specialty markets. They are usually between 1-2 kg. (except wild turkeys and geese), which make these birds perfect for roasting in relatively small Swiss ovens.

The northern Italians also have a rich tradition of enjoying roasted birds during the fall and winter, although their birds of choice are usually quite small. They include such birds as wild ducklings, pigeons, guinea fowls and plenty of other small birds most people consider unworthy to eat.

Most of these birds can be found easy enough throughout the holiday season, but you may have to look for them in specialty shops, gourmet stores, your local butcher or from select vendors in the various weekly markets. If you are near Zürich on Fridays or Saturdays, then be sure to visit Familie Fiechter (Fridays at Helvetiaplatz and Saturdays in Oerlikon) for a wide range of wild birds.

Cooking Birds

Birds can be roasted in a number of different ways. Most birds tend to dry out in hot ovens and become uninspired. Roasting birds at a lower temperature (around 150°C) for longer periods will prevent the bird from losing too much moisture. Crisp the skin of the bird during the last 10 minutes of cooking by turning up the heat to 210°C.

Another way to prepare your favorite bird is to place it in a brining solution for 12-24 hours. The bird is wiped clean then roasted like normal. The brining process infuses the meat with additional flavor and moisture, and the resulting taste is…well, it’s not just chicken!

Slow-roasting and brining are excellent ways to enjoy the birds of fall...either hot or cold!

Roasted Bresse Chicken

Begin by cleaning the inside of a 2,5 kg fresh poularde de Bresse, making sure to remove any signs of leftover innards. Rinse the chicken well under cold water. Dissolve 50gr. of sugar and 60 gr. of sea salt in 2 liters of cold water. Add 1 bay leaf, 1 bunch of fresh thyme and 3 cloves whole garlic. Place the chicken in a large container and pour the brine over the chicken, adding enough cold water to completely cover the chicken. Keep the chicken submerged for 12-24 hours.

Remove the chicken from the brine, then rinse and dry it well. Pre-heat the oven to 160° C. Spread 2 tablespoons of softened butter over the skin, then sprinkle lightly with black pepper and rub with olive oil. Open the cavity and add a bit more pepper, then tuck the wing tips under the wings and loosely truss the legs with twine. Place the chicken on a rack in a roasting pan (use a few cut-up carrots if you do not have a rack). Roast the chicken for about 90 minutes, making sure to baste it with sweet butter every 20 minutes. Begin to check the juices as they run out by the legs. The chicken is done when the juices are clear and the leg feels loose. Turn up the temperature to 220°C and roast the bird for an additional ten minutes to crisp the skin. Remove the chicken, cover loosely with aluminum foil and let the bird rest at least 30 minutes before portioning it.