Potatoes are plentiful, inexpensive, versatile in the kitchen, highly nutritious and simple to prepare – but what variety should you select?

I’m turning into a potato freak – and with good reason too!

Potatoes are plentiful, inexpensive, versatile in the kitchen, highly nutritious and simple to prepare. The only real question with potatoes is deciding on the appropriate type for your recipe…and in Switzerland, that means considering some twenty different varieties.

Most people simply take the potato for granted. It has become a common serf amid more noble vegetables…and very few seem willing to elevate it.

But not me!

Let me bring you into my world of potatoes and introduce you to one of my steadfast culinary friends.

Most of the world’s nourishment is grown underground…and potatoes are the most popular subterranean food. They belong to a classification of food called tubers – from the latin to swell. An accurate name indeed, because potatoes swell with large quantities of starch and vital nutrients, which offer us a concentrated source of energy.

A majority of people already know potatoes are indigenous to Central and South America and made their way to European soil during the 16th century. At one time, there were over 600 varieties of potatoes growing in the Americas. Today, there are roughly 200 varieties – and only 20 or so in Switzerland. This is in spite of the fact potatoes thrive in cooler climates and are inexpensive to grow.

But, they also had a stigma of a food fit only for the poor.

It wasn’t until the early part of the 19th century that potatoes made a culinary comeback and edged their way into mainstream diets of the middle class. The potato finally blossomed, and many new recipes were developed and cultivated into lasting traditions.

Potatoes are still the world’s most consumed vegetable, but they have suffered from spending years being manipulated into a run of the mill ingredient – an unfortunate consequence of being popularized globally by McDonalds.

Sadly, most European potatoes today are mass produced and have poor flavor characteristics; they simply do not offer much to the curious cook who is searching for appealing ways to integrate them into a healthy diet. And yet the potato continues to humbly play an important role in defining key elements of central European cuisine – rösti in Switzerland, gnocchi in Italy, knödel in Austria, gratin Dauphinoise in France and schupfnudeln in Germany to name a few. It is precisely this demand for cultural preservation that gives me hope for a renewed interest in the humble potato.

Today, with a little knowledge and desire, it is possible for one to find excellent locally-produced potatoes in Switzerland – ones that actually have a robust flavor. All you have to do is look…

How To Select The Right Potato

Cooking with potatoes always begins with selecting the right potato for any particular recipe…a task made much easier by getting to know the two main classes of potatoes: waxy (de, festkochend) and mealy/starchy (de, mehlig). These classifications are useful in determining how potatoes react when cooked. By selecting the correct potato for a particular recipe, the probability of a successful outcome greatly improves.

Mealy/starchy potatoes have high concentrations of starch in their cell walls, making them more dense than other types. When these potatoes are cooked, their cell walls swell and separate, creating a fluffy and dry texture. This is the perfect potato for deep-frying, puréeing, baking and making cream soups.

Waxy potatoes, on the other hand, have stronger cell walls which do not separate when cooked. They tend to hold their shape, retain moisture and remain firm after cooking. This type of potato is best used for steaming, sautéing, making gratins or using in salads.

A third, pseudo-classification exists in Switzerland, which considers varieties that have traits from both main categories. These are classified as predominantly waxy (de, vorwiegend festkochend), but with more assertive mealy qualities. They are (perhaps quite conveniently) perfect for making a classic Swiss rösti.

The Swiss also make it easy to spot the different classifications by color-coding the different types. Waxy potatoes are packaged in green bags, mostly waxy (the rösti potato) are in red bags and mealy/starch potatoes are in blue bags.

Waxy Varieties (festkochend)

Agata: The Agata variety is an early season potato. It is typically harvested during the months of June or July, It is a mid-sized potato with light yellow flesh, and it is quite moist after cooking. Like most early-season varieties, the Agata does not store well. It is best from June until September, although they are still available in October and November. The later season varieties will take on a more noticeable starchy characteristic, making them an interesting choice for mashed potatoes.

Charlotte: These middle-sized, yellow-skinned potatoes have a light yellow interior with a mild – somewhat nutty flavor. They remain quite moist after cooking. Charlottes are harvested from July through August, although they are available throughout most of the year (mostly from other countries). Use these potatoes in salads or simply steamed.

Ditta: The Ditta does not appear very often in the supermarkets, but they can be found at local farmer’s markets. It has a brown skin and a dark yellow interior. They are quite moist and have a persistent buttery flavor. The Ditta is harvested in September and best enjoyed from November through March. They are excellent in salads and gratins.

Nicola: The Nicola is the most popular salad potato in the world. Small versions of the Nicola are often used for fondue or with other cheese dishes – in fact, they are classified as ‘raclette’ potatoes. Nicolas have a very yellow interior, remain moist after cooking, and have a slight bitter and earthy tendency. They are harvested in September and best enjoyed from October through February. Aside from being the classic raclette/fondue potato, Nicolas are also excellent in salads or steamed and tossed with sweet butter and sea salt.

Stella: The Stella is not often spotted at the market despite its unusual horn-shaped appearance. It has a rich buttery flavor, with a yellow interior. They are harvested in September and best enjoyed through February. This is a nice alternative for fondue/raclette dishes.

Mostly Waxy Varieties (vorwiegend festkochend)

Urgenta: The rösti potato! This light red-skinned variety has a light yellow interior and pleasing flowery notes when cooked. The rather moist Urgenta is preferred by many rösti purists, because the potato holds up when cooked, becomes soft and browns easily – ideal characteristics for a nice rösti. The Urgenta is harvested in September and best consumed from October through March. In addition to rösti, the Urgenta is excellent for making potato chips and purées.

Viktoria: Like the Urgenta, this variety is most often used to make rösti – although it is versatile and appropriate for many other preparations (steaming, sautéing, baking). It has a yellow flesh and a muted flavor. One advantage is its storage life, which is quite long. After a September harvest, the Viktoria can be held until May under the right circumstances.

Mealy/Starchy Varieties (mehlig)

Agria: This delicious variety requires a bit of time in storage before the flavors fully blossom. It is harvested in September, but best consumed from January through March. Agria potatoes are large with a dark yellow interior, which is exceptionally dry and fluffy when cooked – perfect for a nice easy purée. The flavor is dominated by a mild earthiness, which goes very well with sweet butter.

Bintje: The Bintje is the current trend potato with many European chefs. They are quite fluffy when cooked and produce an excellent purée. Their strong, earth flavors are not overwhelming or dominant. If you are new to European potato varieties, then this is where you should begin. Bintje potatoes are harvested in September and best enjoyed between November and March. They are very versatile – excellent when baked, puréed or made into chips.

Desirée: This is the world’s most popular red-skinned variety. It has a very good flavor, and a dry and light texture. Like most starchy potatoes, these are best consumed after a month or two of storage. Since they are also harvested in September, they will be at their best from November through March. Enjoy them steamed or baked, then just toss them with butter, herbs and sea salt.

Finally, if you are searching for some recipe ideas or if you simply want more information about how to cook potatoes, then consider our e-book on Cooking with Potatoes. You can request a free copy by visiting our Laughing Lemon website.